On June 22, Maison Krug Champagne invited a group of tanned and tattooed influencer types (plus a few journalists) to taste their champagnes at the Reethaus, a sleek “space for radical presence” on the bank of Berlin’s river Spree. Accompanying the three-part cuvée—“Krug A ‘Clarity,’” “Krug B ‘Ensemble,’” and “Krug C ‘Sinfonia’”—was music by the modern-day market leader for this sort of thing: Max Richter.


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… has been an editor at VAN since 2015. He’s the author of The Life and Music of Gérard Grisey: Delirium and Form (Boydell & Brewer), and his journalism has appeared in The Baffler, the New York...